The prevailing “old money” and “Americana summer” social media aesthetics have returned for another year, second only to the exhausted “coastal Italian” (i.e. photos of Positano). I’ve been thinking of dropping a mini Cape Cod guide for a while, and seeing people continue to post about going to The Beachcomber and The Squire wearing those American flag sweaters (you know the ones) finally pushed me over the edge. If you’re seeking that type of experience, I don’t know how to help you, but if you like classic New England beauty, a chill vacation, and good food, keep reading.
Peak season on the Cape runs from the week of the Fourth through mid-August when the back to school trickle begins. My favorite months here are September and October, but July and August are undeniably fun and iconic. Make the drive late Thursday night or very early Friday morning and leave after dinner on Sunday. MassDOT displays warning signs about leaving before 7 PM on Sunday, which feels (appropriately) apocalyptic.
The best part of the Cape (excluding Provincetown, which is its own wonderful thing) is the stretch along the Bay between Sandwich and Brewster. This opinion is informed by 20 years of living in Vermont and the appreciation it gave me for historic New England architecture, lush greenery, and the importance of a good restaurant scene. It’s also quieter than the hyper-seasonal, touristy towns on the Nantucket Sound, and there is more to do and eat than on the Outer Cape. Also, fewer sharks.
Don’t flinch at driving 20 minutes to dinner. It’s beautiful and easy going. Roll the windows down and enjoy Route 6A - “Old King’s Highway” - which bisects the towns on the Bay and has been described by National Geographic as one of the World’s Most Scenic Drives. The architecture is fantastic and the best restaurants on the Cape are off Route 6A or nearby.
If you’re looking for a dinner restaurant to meet metropolitan standards or take someone on a nice date, go to LUNE (which I wrote about here), The Pheasant, or Baleine. If you need to appease multiple generations or just want something easy, go to Scargo or Fishermen’s View. For sushi, Inaho or Ten Yen. For the summer clam shack experience, go to Sesuit Harbor Cafe. Bring snacks and drinks (ice cold wine) for the long wait in line, and show up with a good attitude. Arrive at 5pm or from 7:30pm.
For lunch, pick up sandwiches to take to the beach. Barnstable Market makes good ones, particularly the chicken caesar wrap with chicken cutlet and extra dressing (obviously), but find your nearest sandwich counter and support them. Great beaches are Town Neck, Sandy Neck, Mayflower, and Breakwater and Paine's Creek to explore the Brewster Tidal Flats, which recently won a regional award from Yankee Magazine.
If it’s raining or you’re nursing a sunburn, go to The Dunbar House in Sandwich and order the Windsor Afternoon Tea for two with an extra scone. Then work your way down 6A visiting museums and historic homes. If you’re starting in Sandwich, the correct order is the Sandwich Glass Museum, Winslow Crocker House, Captain Bangs Hallet House (closed this year but save it for next), Edward Gorey House, Cape Cod Museum of Art, Cape Cod Museum of Natural History, and The Crosby Mansion. Or start in Brewster at The Crosby and work your way to lunch at The Dunbar House.
Stop at every antique/thrift/book store that sparks your interest. The majority of our Boston apartment is furnished from Cape Cod antique stores, yard sales, and estate sales, all of which we stumbled upon. If you have the car space, check out Facebook marketplace. This is especially fruitful in the early summer and fall when the seasonal set are replacing old furniture and art.
The best ice cream on the Cape is at Twin Acres. The chocolate peanut butter cookie dough, coconut almond bar, and raspberry revolution are insane. Walk the Sandwich Boardwalk to enjoy the sunset before or after.
Finally, we’re faithful to our moka pot, but cute coffee shops include The Brown Jug, Nirvana, and Lighthouse Keeper's Pantry. Also, there is nothing wrong with the Dunkin’ drive-thru. You’re in Massachusetts, after all.
bookmarking this. i moved to boston almost two years ago and have yet to make it to the cape purely because it seems like such a beast!! this is a wealth of knowledge!!